Sonntag, 16. Juli 2017

Duck Down Mess



I think I´ve kept you waiting long enough now...


Back in September last year I wrote about my Faullenzer Corset on the very day I finished todays Project.
A Down filled Petticoat in preparation for winter.

These petticoats were very popular in the midth of the 19th century since they provided the required bulk under the skirts while beeing quite lightweight (and super warm, of course).

Moste original examples survive from the 1860s and 70s and couriously most of them are red. Colourful underwear was in fashion after all...


https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-arctic-goose-down-padded-petticoat
V&A ca. 1860

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108749
The Met ca. 1865-1870
http://www.thejohnbrightcollection.co.uk/costume/petticoats/
The John Bright Collection ca. 1870

http://www.quiltmuseum.org.uk/collections/turkey-red-fabric/booth-and-fox-quilted-petticoat.html
The Quilter's Guild Collection ca. 1865-1880


This last one has also been featured in Nancy Bradfields "Costume in Detail" p. 200.

Needless to say that I urgently needed one of those!
My supplies were at hand as well: an old down filled duvet and bedlinen I have not used well over five years.
My plan: 
cut rectanles, triangles and a yoke, sew together, pipe the hem for extra support, fill it with the feathers, quilt it, sew on the yoke, stitch eyelets and add hooks, done! 

My supplies

Costume in Detail said that the petticoats are machine sewn and since my modern machine is having the hiccups I pulled out my old hand crank machine to do the work. It took a while to adjust all tensions (with help of the original instructions) before I could start. It turned out that my desk wasn't big enough so I moved everything to the floor.


What can I say. Feathers everywhere!!!
I inhaled half a duck! If any of you is ever going to cut open a duvet, please cover your face with a mask so you will still be able to breathe during your stuffing-and-sewing.
I still had feathers flying around weeks later, but the result was absolutely worth it.


inside out

The closure is a hook and eyelet at the front. Also a tie-string runs through the yoke, crosses in the back and comes to the front again. This makes the petticoat multi sized and super easy to adjust.

I also made a little bonus project
 

This petticoat is awesome! It rustles like a duvet, it touches like a duvet and if you sit on the couch wearing it for whatever TV show it warms like a duvet! I instanly felt like a 7 year old playing princess with the duvet. Only I didn't have to old it with my hands this time!

And the really satisfying part: it holds the shape really well!

Step 1: Bustle pad and petticoat

Step 2: Another petticoat

Step 3: A recently made, rather heavy skirt on top
Since I didn't use the entire duvet fillings I am developing more and more ideas on what to do with the leftovers.
What about a muff? Or sleeve supports?

Wee will see...


Sonntag, 9. Juli 2017

Fashion Plate Regency Bonnet

Please do excuse the messy looks on my blog background. I will fix it asap!

Since I am on vacation this and next week I finally have time on my hands to sew!
My choice fell upon a new hat. I wanted something rather quick to finish and to use up stash materials.
I have used the pattern (Lynn McMasters Regeny Bonnet) before, but this time I chose a double brimmed version to have a little challenge. The only adjustment I made was on the ties. As you may remember I disliked the length of the ties on my 1st Regency Bonnet, so this time I made them longer and also double layered.

The first challenge came pretty fast! While covering the under brim I had to discover that the pattern piece is obviously too small! I never had problems like that with a hat pattern before and I could not recut the fabric, because it was a stash leftover (Grandmas Thai Silk from the 90s). To make it work anyway I pulled enough fabric to the underside of the brim, so it wold be covered entirely. The upper part would be covered with the second brim, so the uncovered part won't be visible.

The upper brim is lined with a heavy woven interfacing instaed of buckram to make it more flexible.
 

To avoid a bulky brim I turned under the seam allowances and used a ladder stitch to join both parts.

Origially I had planned to base the trimmings on the cover illustrations of the pattern. Two hatbands, a cockade, some feathers...
http://lynnmcmasters.com/NewRegency/Pages/9.html
Lynn McMasters Regency Bonnet
But then I decided to have a browse on pinterest to see some original trimmings. Two hours of drooling later I found the perfect inspirational 1812 Fashion Plate of "Costumes Parisiens".

It had to be this beautiful bonnet!
Also, around the same time I noticed that the July challenge of this years HSM is "Fashion Plate". I have not finished a challege in over a year! Hurrah! 
Since there was absolutely no pink fabric left I had to join some bias strips of the beige coloured silk  taffeta to make the double piping for the crown sides and the lower brim. Nearly everyting from the taffeta was cut on the bias, so I had some small pieces left over.


As usual I made a small testpiece...
The piping on the crown sides was attached using a running stitch
The piping on the brim was attached using a large backstitch, since small stitches were not possible

 

The feather plumes were made by sewing together three ostrich feathers to make a really fluffy one. I made three plumes and fixed them on the front of the crown.

The lining was then sewn in using a running stitch with a curved needle I made using pliers.

And finally my new bonnet was finished.
The Challenge Details:

The Challenge: #7 Fashion Plate
Material: 1 cotton velvet cushion cover from IKEA, 1x0,9m silk taffeta, cotton muslin as mull
Pattern: Lynn McMasters Regency Bonnet

Year: 1812
Notions: millinery wire, woven interfacing, buckram, ostrich feathers, piping cord, polyerster thread

How historically accurate is it? The wire and ties were sewn on the machine and glue was used covering the upper brim. Everything else is spot on.
Hours to complete: 10
First worn: Not yet
Total cost: If bought new about 30€ for the materials.




 


 

Liebster Award!



Herzlichen Dank an Clara von Clair de la Lune , die mich vor einiger Zeit für einen Liebster Award nominiert hat.
Lieben Dank Clara!
Da der Nominierungspost auf deutsch geschrieben ist, versuche ich mich heute mal bilingual.

Many thanks to Clara of Clair de la Lune for nominating me for a Liebster Award! Since the nomination Post is written in german I will try to make a bilingual post taday.


Hier der Liebster Award Leitfaden (Regeln):


  • Danke der Person, die dich nominiert hat und verlinke ihren/seinen Blog bei dir
  • Beantworte die 11 Fragen
  • Nominiere 3-11 weitere neue Blogger mit weniger als 300 Followern
  • Überleg dir 11 neue Fragen für die nominierten Blogger
  • Füge die Regeln in deinen „Liebster Award Post“
  • Füge eins von den Liebster Award Logos ein
The Liebster Award Rules: 
  • Thank the person who nominated you and link to her/ his blog
  • Answer the 11 questions
  • Namonate 3-11 new blogs with less than 300 followers
  • Come up with 11 questions for your nominees to answer
  • Include the Rules in your "Liebster Award Post"
  • Include the "Liebster Award" Logo

1) Wer oder was motiviert dich am meisten, nach einer längeren Pause erneut zu nähen und wer oder was inspiriert dich am meisten?
Irgendwann kehrt dir Freude am Nähen immer zurück. Mir gefällt es besonders zu sehen, wie mein Projekt durch mich wächst und aus einer Idee Realität wird.  

2 Könntest du dir vorstellen, dein Hobby zum Hauptberuf zu machen (falls es nicht schon der Fall ist)?
Eher nicht. Ich nähe für mein Leben gerne, aber es gibt immer wieder Phasen, in denen ich nichts mit Nähen zu tun haben will. Dann gönn ich mir den Luxus und mach ne Pause, damit ich hinterher umso motivierter in neue und ambitionierte Projekte einsteigen kann und diese dann auch mit ganzem Herzen verfolge. 

3) Verrichtest du gerne Handarbeiten, oder sitzt du lieber an der Nähmaschine?
Ich habe mir vor gar nicht langer Zeit vorgenommen meine historische Näherei auf ein höheres Level zu treiben und mehr Handnähen zu integrieren. Das fällt mir tatsächlich auch noch schwer. Das Erfolgserlebnis hinterher ist aber besonders schön! Ganz auf meine Nähmaschine verzichten möchte ich aber nicht. Zumal ich ja auch viel aus Zeiten nähe, in denen durchaus schon per Nähmaschine genäht wurde.

4) Gibt es irgendwas, dass du zusätzlich auch sehr gerne erlernen würdest, z.B. Stricken, Klöppeln etc.?
Klöppeln fände ich schon interessant. Die Aurüstung ist da, die Geduld noch nicht...

5) Hast du dich beim Nähen schon einmal verletzt, und wenn ja, wie?
Ich hab mir mal mit der Maschine durch den Finger genäht. Hört sich aber schlimmer an, als es war... Es ging neben dem Nagel durch und war zum Glück auch viel Hornhaut. Die täglichen Sticheleien beim Hantieren mit Nadel und Faden kann man ja eigentlich nicht mitzählen. 

6) Was ist es, was deinen Stil hauptsächlich ausmacht?
Hab ich einen Stil? Ich bemühe mich sehr um eine saubere Verarbeitung, soweit meine Fähigkeiten dies zulassen. 

7) Welches Projekt steht als Nächstes an?
Massenweise Traumprojekte! Ich nähe im Moment viel Unterwäsche... 

8) Wenn du für ein paar Stunden in eine Zeit zurückreisen könntest, welche wäre es?
30. September 1791 für die Premiere von Mozarts "Zauberflöte" in Wien.

9) Welche Epoche magst du am allerliebsten und welche am allerwenigsten (bzgl. der Kostüme)?
Ich mag die Zeit von 1876- 1882 besonders gerne. Fließende Kleider und Lange Schleppen. Hach... Das 18. Jahrhundert gefällt mir aber auch immer besser... 
Mittelalter mag ich nicht so.  

10) Wie lautet der letzte Kostümfilm, den du dir angesehen hast?
Das Märchen der Märchen. Leider hat es meine Kleidergeschmack nicht wirklich getroffen. 

11) Auf welches Projekt bist du besonders stolz?
Meine Hühnchen Schnürbrust. Die zaubert mir immernoch jedes Mal, wenn ich sie sehe ein Lächeln ins Gesicht.

1) Who or what inspires or motivates you most to start sewing after a long break? 
At some stage the joy about sewing returns by itself. I especially enjoy seeing a project growing in my hands and become reality, starting from a simple idea.  

  2) Could you imagine to mak your Hobby your main job (if that is not already the case)
Not really. I love to sew, but sometimes I need a break from it. Then I can treat myself with that break (a couple of years back I had a one year gap!) and return to sewing motivated and with all my heart.

3) Do you prefere handiwork or machinesewing?  
 Not long ago I decided to go to the next level of historical sewing an be more accurate, including handsewing. That is a real challenge for me, but the feeling of success afterwards is really special. I don't want to neglect my sewing machine as I am still sewing lots of things from "sewing machine periods"

4) Is there a spechial skill you would like to learn in addition to sewing, like embroidery and making bobbin lace?  
 Bobbin lace sounds very tempting. I've got the equipment, but not the patience...

5) Did you ever injure yourself while sewing and if you did, how?  
My machine sewed through my finger once, but it sounds worse than it actually was. It was next to the nail and mostly through callused skin. I am not counting the every day needling. 

6) What makes your style?
I am not aware of having a special style. I am thriving towards good workmanship as far as my abilities go.
 
7) What is your next project?  
Loads of dream projects. I am sewing lots of underwear lately.

8) If you could travel in time for a few hours, where would you go?
30th of September 1791 to watch Mozarts original Magic Flute in vienna.
 
9) Which is your favourite period and which isn't relating to costumes?  
I very much like the natural form era from 1876-1882. Especially the long trains! I am also starting out to like the 18th century. I don't fancy medieval fashions.
 
10) Which was the last costume movie you saw?  
"The Tale of Tales". I didn't like the costumes very much.
 
11) Which project makes you especially proud?
My crazy green chicken feeding stays. These still make me smile every time I see them.

Meine Nominierungen gehen an:
My nominees are:

Ruffles not Rifles
Dressed for any time
AvA Candide

Meine Fragen an euch:
My questions to you: 

1. Wie viel Platz nimmt dein Hobby in deinem Zuhause ein? Hast du ein Nähzimmer?
2. Welches ist dein absolutes Lieblingsstück, dass du bisher gefertigt hast?
3. Wie alt warst du, als das Nähfieber dich ergriffen hat?
4. In welcher Epoche hältst du die Kleidermäßig am liebsten auf und warum?
5. Gibt es etwas, wo du dich bislang nicht herangetraut hast, es aber wirklich gerne mal ausprobieren würdest?
6. Welche andere Hobbies hast du außer Nähen?
7. Wie lange recherchierst du, bevor du ein neues Projekt startest?
8. Warum schreibst du einen Blog über deine Näherlebnisse?
9. Was hält deine Familie von deinem Hobby?
10. Wenn Nähen nicht dein Beruf ist, was ist es dann?
11. Wie viele Teile liegen auf deinem UFO Stapel?

1. How much space do you have for your Hobby? Do you have a sewing room?
2. Which is your favourite piece of all time??
3. How old were you when you catched the sewing fever?
4. In which era do you spend the most of your historical costuming time and why?
5. Is there something you didn't dare to make so far, but really can't wait to try?
6. Which other hobbies do you have besides sewing?
7. How long do you research before starting a new project?
8. Why are you writing a blog about your sewing adventures?
9. What is your Families opinion of your hobby?
10. If sewing is not your main job, what is?
11. How many pieces are on your UFO Pile?


Ich bin sehr neugierig auf eure Antworten!
I am very curious for your answers!

 




fashion plate