For the current HSF Challenge #15 The Great Outdoors I made a Paletot. "What is that?" you may ask now and I didn't know for myself until I looked it up.
A Paletot is a three quarter length and slightly waisted mantle for both Ladies and Gentlemen. From the 18th century on a Paletot was worn in the same style like the garment underneath (Wikipedia).
I chose to use a pattern from Frances Grimble's "Reconstruction Era Fashions" p.197.
|1868 Watteau Paletot|
The trimmings are lace and passementerie braid. The belt looks like it is piped and the trimmings on the back of the sleeve look like they have piping as well. The sleeves seem to have an additional lace cap sleeve. There are three single lace ornaments on the pleats on the back. I don't have fitting ornaments, so my pleats will be plain without decorations.
A funny detail is the zig-zag collar which I will alter slightly to be put on a fabric base.
The pattern pieces waiting to get used. For the facing I will use the same pattern pieces. The collar is a rectangular piece of fabric.
Mock-up 1 Mock-up 2
Arrgh! My fabric is not wide enough to cut on the fold... The fabric is the same twill I used for my 1740-1760 Stays - only in black. After cutting the fabric the pleats are made on the back and front. Since the construction is not very different from modern mantles I won't give too many details...
Testing the hem trimming on a scrap piece of fabric
|The pleats are sewn inside along the inner fold. I then attached them inside by hand.|
It starts to look like something to wear!!!
The facing is attached right sides together, the seam allowance is clipped and ready to turn inside-out.
|attaching Lace and Braid on the hem of the Paletot|
|A first attempt to see the fit with the belt underneath the pleats.|
|The collar trimming is made from 2,5cm wide satin ribbon|
Inside look with collar and facing.
|Lace cap sleeves|
#15 - The Great outdoors
A Watteau Paletot
Fabric: 3m cotton twill, 0,75m polyester lace
Pattern: Frances Grimble's "Reconstruction Era Fashions" Page 197
Notions: Polyester threat, satin ribbon, satin bias tape, polyester braid
How historically accurate is it? Pattern and trimmings are good, but the materials used are not exactly...
Hours to complete: ca. 15
Total cost: ca. 45€